The Paris Guide
General Tips
There’s a reason so many people have a love affair with Paris. People talk about it being the most romantic city in the world and think it’s for couples but I can think of at least dozens of people I know who found a little more love for themselves here. Get lost and get found, you could say!
General Travel Tips
Much like any major European city, there is the tourist stops that you should see once in your life but the real magic of Paris is when you get to go beyond that!
Pick your traveling companion wisely for a trip to Paris. You will have the most fun if even those small moments, sitting at a bistro, lounging in a park, is a lovely relaxed vibe. Get into the Parisian way of mind.
I love Paris in the early fall or late spring. Shoulder seasons where weather is pleasant and there aren’t peak crowds. I’ve done it in 4 day weekends and as long as you are ready to jam pack your days with walking and food, it’s a great trip!
Staying in Paris
Hotels in Paris range from best-in-the-world and glamorous, to tiny and suspect. I’ve had good luck with AirBnB in the Marais but recently, my favorite spots have been Hotel Solly, Victoria Palace Hotel and Hotel Therese. For a budget pick, Hotel Bienvenue. If you have a bit more stretch, Les Pavillon des Lettres was lovely, though maybe not in the most convenient neighborhood and I have heard amazing things about Hotel Alfred Sommier and Le Narcisse Blanc.
That said, if I was willing to splurge a little or a lot, there are some fabulous hotels to try. Meghan Donovan (Wit & Whimsy) is a Paris expert and can book you a hotel with great perks via her travel atelier here.
Eating in Paris
Restaurants
Le Fontaine De Mars (7th Arr.)
This spot was recommended to me by Anna Kloots who lives in Paris and my does it live up to the hype. A classic spot but also with lovely energy and the whole staff was so nice. I was there in January so couldn’t sit outside but she says it’s magical when the weather is nice enough!
Chez Janou (Le Marais)
A lovely Provencal spot tucked on an adorable corner in the Marais. The food here is delicious but you really come here for the chocolate mousse. It’s lovely in the afternoon or can be a really romantic dinner spot. This is probably the one spot in Paris I say to all my friends they must try at least once. Unfortunately TikTok caught onto this one so you find a lot more Americans but I find that it still lives up to my memory.
Le 404 (Le Marais)
A vibey, cozy Morrocan spot with decadent tagines. Especially if you’ve been in Paris for a few days and are a bit over French food, this is such a lovely switch of flavors and felt like I stepped into another world when I stepped inside.
Poulette (2nd Arr.)
The food here was delish. I’m always a little concerned when the staff seems so well practiced dealing in English/with tourists but the food here was elevated and sophisticated. It’s on a hectic street but once you get inside the design is lovely as well.
Le Deux Magots (St. Germain)
This is one of the classic French bistros in St Germain. (The competitor is Cafe de Flore around the corner.) Of the two, Le Deux Magots is definitely my favorite. Whether for a little coffee or a bottle of wine and some charcuterie, it’s a lovely spot to sit and and enjoy the streets of Paris.
Cafe Charlot (Le Marais)
One of my favorite bistros and my go to in the Marais. The energy on the patio is active but not hectic at any time of day and the staff is kind, even when you’re fresh off a redeye and haven’t showered yet. My last trip, I was back here at least twice!
Frenchie Wine Bar (2nd Arr)
A more casual sister of Frenchie that is way easier to get seated in. A cozy, low key vibe with delicious food. A highly recommended spot (and in a neighborhood where you don’t hear about as many great spots).
Merci (Le Marais)
A cafe inside of a really innovative department store. Go here for brunch and ideally sit at one of the tables with a view of the adorable little courtyard.
Au Petit Fer à Cheval (Le Marais)
Charming inside with a tiny bar, I have typically gone here just for a drink but like many of the spots in Paris, they also have a nice accessible menu. It’s in a great location for when you’re walking around Le Marais.
Pink Mamma (Montmatre)
A part of the Big Mamma restaurant group, best known for Ober Mamma. They do excellent Italian food with sort of Soho House vibes. Pink Mamma has a bunch of levels and the upstairs are even more beautiful than the downstairs (although all of them are great). There are lines to get a table though, so plan accordingly (and order pizza and the buratta once seated).
Coffee and Sweets
Boots Cafe (Le Marais)
A cute facade (you’ve probably seen photos of it on Instagram) with a yummy but often bustling coffee shop inside. Stop in when you’re walking through the neighborhood for an espresso!
Berthillon (Il Sant Louis)
The famous ice cream shop on the little island in the Seine. Chocolate and a fruit flavor in a cone is the right order. Many have their favorite ice cream shops in Paris that they all claim are better than Berthillon. This may be true but I haven’t been to those places so in the meantime, I recommend a stop at Berthillon, even considering the line.
Pierre Herme (8th Arr)
There is many an opinion on La Duree vs. Pierre Herme. La Duree is more famous in the States but in my opinion, Pierre Herme is definitively better. The more sweet, creamier flavors at Pierre Herme are extraordinary. There are locations throughout the city. The Champs Elyesees is the most decadent, fancy location but I’ve also been to the one near Place Vendome which is also lovely.
Du Pain et des Idées (Porte San Martin)
Traditional french Boulangerie with unbelievable pastries (pain au raisins are some of their most popular along with the classics) and a beautiful old ceiling.
Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d’Avenir (2nd Arr.)
Award winning croissants, very buttery but with that signature crunch that you expect when you’re in Paris. It’s on a cute little street with all the local spots for fish, veggies, etc. that help you imagine the glory of what grocery shopping would be like if you lived in Paris. Love love love this spot.
Boulangerie Poilâne (St. Germain)
They have multiple locations but they are multiple of my friends favorite croissants stops, especially if you optimize more on the pillowyness inside the croissant and care less about a crispy crispy crunch. A classic.
La Maison d’Isabelle (5th Arr.)
This won the prize a couple years ago for best croissant in Paris, I haven’t been but that’s a reco enough for me!
Bars
Prescription Cocktail Club (St Germain)
An upscale cocktail joint with delicious cocktails, fun bartenders and a great atmosphere. Don’t come with too many people, it’s the type of place where you don’t want to have to talk loud to be heard. Trust the bartenders on your ordering here, they’re excellent.
Bar Hemingway (Tuileries)
Tucked into the back corner of the Ritz Carlton Paris, an already incredibly luxurious and historic hotel, is a bar frequented by Hemingway. It’s old school and glamorous and very overpriced but still a really fun experience and the drinks are delicious. Plan for just one drink here because, like I said, overpriced.
Le Caveau de Hauchette (St Germain/Luxembourg)
This place is actually a cave (that’s what the name means) and it’s a popular swing dancing spot. The crew who frequents the dance floor range in ages and they’re so talented. It’s a joy to watch and feels like stepping back in time. It does involve a cover and it gets warm inside so plan your dress accordingly.
Bar Bisou (Le Marais)
A cute cocktail spot. The decor inside is lovely and very pink but the cocktails are good. Great for drinks with the girls but maybe skip it if your with a drinker of the male variety.
Shopping in Paris
Designer shopping in Paris gets a lot of press because coming from the U.S. you can get such better deals than in the states but that doesn’t mean you have to be willing to spend those amounts in order to enjoy shopping in Paris. Shopping always depends on taste but here are some stops that I’ve enjoyed popping into or have been recommended to me by others:
Merci and Brigitte Tanaka are as cool in environment as they are to peruse. Librairie Galignani is one of the first bookstores established on the European continent, a really fun browse.
Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is great for souvenirs and I always stop at Citypharma for deep discounts on all sorts of cosmetics and pharmacy products (you can get your tax return there if you bring your passport)! I also love Le Grand Epicerie (near Le Bon Marché) for food related souvenirs.
Vintage shopping spots are plenty but mark on your maps: Marie Olive, EREM, Le Boudoir, THANX GOD I’M A VIP, Valois Vintage, and Old Fashioned Club.
For leather goods, check out Polene, Mizele.
The department stores in Paris are almost an attraction of their own. I found an amazing second hand bag at Printemps. Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche is gorgeous and chock full of
Sightseeing in Paris
If you have never been to Paris before, you should make time to roam around the Louvre but go early and reserve entry if you can. Eiffel Tower, of course, but to me it’s not worth spending the time to go up.
The Musée D’Orsay is more fun for me than the Louvre and it has so many impressionists. Sacre Coeur is seen from across Paris but this corner of the city is quaint and so fun to see Paris from on high. Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle is also stunning, but be prepared for lines!
Versailles is included in lots of people’s lists and it’s beautiful, with so much to explore but it can fill half to a full day once you’re there, plus the time to get into the property and the train to and from Paris (it’s almost an hour away). So may not be good if your schedule is tight!
But once you’ve been to the core spots, consider seeing:
Musée Rodin - my favorite museum in Paris. So romantic, the grounds are as gorgeous as the art itself.
Picasso Museum - so interesting and a different mood than many of the other spots
Musée de l’Orangerie - a small museum just to show Monet’s Water Lilies. It’s immersive in an amazing way.
Musée Jacquemart-André - a beautiful mansion with plenty to explore and won’t be as busy as the big spots
